An Ottoman 'Plain Tradition' voided silk velvet panel
Turkey, 16th century
the cerise silk velvet voided on a dark ivory ground, with a central lobed medallion and corner spandrels, a row of alternating arches above and below, lined
154.5 by 65cm.
The strikingly graphic design of this velvet relates to a smaller group known as ‘plain tradition’ velvets, a counter trend to the increasingly complex designs and techniques that were being developed during the sixteenth century. The design of the textile incorporates forms commonly found in Ottoman velvets such as the lobed medallion, usually arranged in the form of a staggered ogival lattice, and an arcade at each end, more often filled with floral motifs. Here, each motif has been reduced to its most basic silhouette creating a stark contrast between the ivory and crimson silk. The result supports German art historian Winckelmann’s praise of the “noble simplicity and quiet grandeur” of textiles of this group (see Atasoy, Denny, Mackie, Tazcan 2001, p.267).
Two examples of plain tradition Ottoman velvets with designs derived from the cintamani motif are in the Musée Historique des Tissues, Lyons (inv. no.35.488) and the Kunstgewerbemuseum, Berlin (inv. no.01.69, see Atasoy, Denny, Mackie, Tazcan 2001, pp.96-97, pls.47-48). A later silk lampas cushion cover within a minimalist design of similar arrangement to the present lot but with some floral detailing is in the Cleveland Museum of Art (inv. no.2007.13.1, see Mackie 2015, p.317, fig.8.22).
References
Atasoy, N., et al., İpek, the Crescent & the Rose: Imperial Ottoman Silks and Velvets, London, 2001
Mackie, L. W., Symbols of Power: Luxury Textiles from Islamic Lands, 7th–21st Century, Cleveland, 2015